Stories & Guides
Long reads on history, crafts, food, education and practical travel tips.
A short history of Sanothimi, Thimi and Bhaktapur
From Licchavi kings and Malla palaces to the Gorkha conquest, the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes and a modern highway — how the eastern valley became what it is today.
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What to eat: juju dhau, bara, yomari and the Newar feast
A tasting guide to the kitchens of Bhaktapur and Thimi, from the king of curds to lentil pancakes, festival soups and the ceremonial samay baji plate.
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How to read a Newar temple
Roof struts, toranas, guardian lions and brick courtyards — a visitor's guide to the building language of Thimi and Bhaktapur.
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Newar life: guthi, jatra and the rhythm of the year
Who keeps the festivals running? An introduction to the Newar community, the guthi associations and the rituals that mark a person's life from birth to old age.
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One perfect day from Sanothimi
An hour-by-hour plan: sunrise at a Thimi temple, craft lanes, juju dhau in Bhaktapur, the great squares and sunset over the rooftops.
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Practical guide: transport, seasons, money and manners
Everything you need to get around Sanothimi and the eastern valley comfortably and respectfully.
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After the earthquake: how Bhaktapur and Thimi rebuilt
The 2015 earthquake shook the valley's oldest towns. Their recovery tells a story of community, craft and hard choices.
Read more → · 2 min