Sanothimi and the City of Devotees
A slow, detailed guide to Sanothimi, old Thimi and Bhaktapur — its temples, squares, festivals, crafts, food and the people who keep them alive.
Welcome to Sanothimi
Sanothimi sits on the Araniko Highway between Kathmandu and Bhaktapur, inside Madhyapur Thimi Municipality. Most people pass through it on a bus without stopping. This site is an invitation to stop.
Within a few kilometres of Sanothimi you can stand under the tallest pagoda in Nepal, walk through a royal palace courtyard built by Malla kings, watch potters shape clay the way their great-grandparents did, and eat curd so thick it is called the king of curds. Every page here has a short summary and a longer article for when you want to know more.
Places to visit
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Sanothimi: the small Thimi
A busy, friendly neighbourhood on the Araniko Highway, halfway between Kathmandu and Bhaktapur — and the best base for exploring the eastern valley.
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Old Thimi: the town of capable people
A tightly packed Newar town of brick lanes, courtyards and potters' yards on a ridge above Sanothimi — one of the least touristy historic towns in the valley.
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Balkumari Temple, Thimi
The spiritual centre of Thimi and the focus of Sindoor Jatra, when the whole town turns red with vermilion on Nepali New Year.
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Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The royal square of the Malla kings of Bhaktapur: palaces, stone temples, a golden gate and a giant bell, all part of the Kathmandu Valley World Heritage Site.
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Nyatapola: the five-storey temple
The tallest pagoda temple in Nepal, built in 1702 and guarded by stone wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses. It survived both great earthquakes.
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Changu Narayan
Nepal's oldest temple, on a forested hilltop north of Bhaktapur, with a stone inscription from the fifth century and some of the finest sculpture in the country.
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Nagarkot: sunrise over the Himalaya
A ridge on the north-eastern rim of the valley, at around 2,100 metres, famous for Himalayan sunrises and easy hikes back towards Changu Narayan.
Read more → · 2 minUpcoming festivals
See all →Indra Jatra and Kumari Jatra
Eight days in Kathmandu's Basantapur honouring Indra, god of rain, with the raising of the yosin pole, masked dances and the chariot procession of the living goddess Kumari.
Happening now11 October 2026 – 25 October 2026Dashain (Bada Dashain)
Nepal's biggest festival: fifteen days honouring the goddess Durga, ending with tika and blessings from elders. In Bhaktapur and Thimi it is also the season of sacred masked dances.
In 13 days20 October 2026 – 15 June 2027Nava Durga masked dances of Bhaktapur
A troupe of masked dancers embodying the forms of Durga tours the neighbourhoods of Bhaktapur for about eleven months each year.
In 22 days6 November 2026 – 11 November 2026Tihar, Mha Puja and Nepal Sambat New Year
Five days of lights honouring crows, dogs, cows, the goddess Lakshmi and brothers — and for the Newar community of Thimi and Bhaktapur, a new year and the worship of one's own body.
In 39 daysFestival dates follow the lunar calendar. Dates shown are approximate — confirm with a local calendar (patro) before you travel.
Stories & Guides
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A short history of Sanothimi, Thimi and Bhaktapur
From Licchavi kings and Malla palaces to the Gorkha conquest, the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes and a modern highway — how the eastern valley became what it is today.
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What to eat: juju dhau, bara, yomari and the Newar feast
A tasting guide to the kitchens of Bhaktapur and Thimi, from the king of curds to lentil pancakes, festival soups and the ceremonial samay baji plate.
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How to read a Newar temple
Roof struts, toranas, guardian lions and brick courtyards — a visitor's guide to the building language of Thimi and Bhaktapur.
Read more → · 3 minLatest updates
- New: a Plan a visit page with opening hours, entry fees, time needed and how to get there for all 25 places, plus half-day to three-day trip plans.
- New: photo galleries on every page, a History timeline with 150+ dated events, 5 new places (Nava Durga Dyochhen, Kamal Binayak, Sankhu, Dhulikhel, Namo Buddha) and 9 new festivals.
- Festival season is coming: Ghatasthapana, the first day of Dashain, is expected around 11 October 2026. Expect crowded buses on the Araniko Highway in the days before tika.
- Autumn is the best season for mountain views from Nagarkot — skies usually clear from mid-October after the monsoon.
- Hamro Sanothimi is live, with 20 places, 11 festivals and 7 long reads in English and Nepali.