Nagarkot: sunrise over the Himalaya

When the air is clear, the long white wall of the Himalaya can be seen from the eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley. The best-known place to see it is Nagarkot, a hilltop village about 25 kilometres from Sanothimi, reached by a winding road that climbs from Bhaktapur through terraced fields and pine forest.

The view

On a good morning, the panorama from Nagarkot stretches from the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges in the west through Ganesh Himal, Langtang and Dorje Lakpa to Gaurishankar in the east. On exceptionally clear days, a small point in the far east is said to be Mount Everest. Sunrise is the classic moment, when the snow peaks turn pink and gold while the valleys below are still filled with mist.

When to go

Views are best after the monsoon, from October to December, and on clear days in late winter and early spring. From June to September the mountains are usually hidden by clouds, though the green hills and rolling mist have their own beauty. Nights are cold for much of the year, so bring a warm layer even if the valley is hot.

Staying overnight

To see sunrise, most people stay overnight in one of Nagarkot's many hotels and guesthouses, then walk or drive to a viewpoint or view tower before dawn. It is also possible to leave Sanothimi very early by taxi, but check road conditions first.

Hiking

Nagarkot is the starting or finishing point for several walks. The most popular is the ridge walk to Changu Narayan, mostly downhill, taking around four to five hours through villages and forest. Other routes lead down to Sankhu or towards Dhulikhel. Trails are not always signposted, so use a map app or hire a local guide.

Getting there

Buses run from Bhaktapur's bus park to Nagarkot several times a day; from Sanothimi, take a bus to Bhaktapur first. Taxis and ride-share cars can take you directly. The road is paved but narrow and winding.