Suryabinayak

South of Bhaktapur, across the Hanumante river and up a forested hillside, stands the temple of Suryabinayak — Ganesh of the sun. It is one of the four most important Ganesh temples of the Kathmandu Valley, the Char Binayak, which protect the valley from the four directions.

The sun's first light

The name comes from the belief that the temple, facing east on its hillside, receives the first rays of the morning sun in the valley. Because of this, early morning is the most auspicious time to visit. Families come especially on Tuesdays and Saturdays, the days dedicated to Ganesh.

Blessing for children

Suryabinayak has a special reputation: parents bring children who are slow to walk or talk to pray here. Many people in Bhaktapur and Sanothimi remember being brought here as small children.

The walk

From Bhaktapur, walk south through the old city, cross the river and follow the road uphill until a long stone stairway leads into the forest. The climb is short but steep. Around the temple are small shrines, bells, rest houses and a large stone image of Ganesh's rat. The surrounding forest is cool and shaded, with views back over the brick rooftops of Bhaktapur.

Picnic spot

The forest and the grounds nearby are popular for picnics, especially in winter and on public holidays. Please carry your rubbish back down — the forest is a precious green lung for the eastern valley.

Suryabinayak today

The name Suryabinayak also refers to a new municipality and a busy junction on the Araniko Highway, where buses for Banepa, Dhulikhel and the east stop. Do not confuse the junction with the temple itself, which lies a short distance up the hill.