Balkumari Temple, Thimi

At the centre of old Thimi, surrounded by rest houses and brick homes, stands the temple of Balkumari. For the people of Thimi she is the protector of the town, the goddess to whom newborns are presented, to whom families pray before weddings and journeys, and whose festival marks the beginning of every Nepali year.

Who is Balkumari?

Balkumari is a form of Kumari, the virgin mother goddess worshipped across the Kathmandu Valley. In Newar tradition she is closely associated with Bhairav, the fierce form of Shiva, and in Thimi she is sometimes described as his consort. Balkumari temples are found in several valley towns, but the one in Thimi is among the most important, and its festival is by far the most spectacular.

The temple

The temple is built in the Newar pagoda style, with tiered roofs supported by carved wooden struts and a gilded pinnacle. The main shrine faces a paved courtyard where devotees gather, light oil lamps and ring bells. Around the courtyard are pati rest houses where elders sit in the afternoon, musicians practise before festivals, and on important days families share feasts. Small shrines, stone sculptures and bells fill the space, many donated by local families over generations.

Sindoor Jatra

On the first day of the Nepali month of Baisakh — Nepali New Year, usually in mid-April — Thimi celebrates Sindoor Jatra, the vermilion festival. Deities from shrines all around the town are carried to Balkumari in palanquins called khat, each borne on the shoulders of young men. Traditionally there were thirty-two palanquins; in recent years around twenty-six take part. The bearers spin and sway the khats to the rhythm of drums and trumpets, and the crowd throws handfuls of red sindoor powder into the air until the entire square, every building and every face is red.

The festival is linked to Bisket Jatra in nearby Bhaktapur, and many people visit both. It is joyful, loud and crowded. If you attend, wear old clothes you do not mind ruining, protect your camera and phone, and keep your eyes shut when a cloud of powder comes your way. Stand on a raised pati or rooftop if you can find a friendly host — the view of the red khats moving through the square is unforgettable.

Everyday worship

Outside festival time the temple is calm. Mornings are busiest, when residents come to offer flowers, rice and vermilion on their way to work. On Tuesdays and Saturdays and during Dashain, more elaborate pujas take place. Visitors are welcome to watch quietly; do not step onto the inner platforms or touch offerings, and ask before photographing people praying.

Getting there

From Sanothimi, walk uphill into old Thimi; ask anyone for Balkumari and they will point the way. From Bhaktapur, take a microbus towards Kathmandu and get off at Thimi, then walk north into the old town. Combining a morning at the temple with lunch in Thimi and an afternoon in Bhaktapur makes a perfect day.