Potters and mask makers of Thimi

In many Newar towns crafts are organised by caste and family, and skills pass from parents to children over centuries. Thimi is best known for two of them: pottery made by Prajapati families, and colourful masks made from paper pulp and clay.

Pottery

The potters of Thimi work much as their ancestors did. Clay is dug from nearby fields, soaked, cleaned of stones and trampled until smooth. It is then thrown on a wheel — traditionally a heavy wooden or stone wheel spun with a stick, now often an electric one — and shaped into water jars, curd pots, lamps, piggy banks and flower pots.

Freshly shaped pots are left in rows in courtyards and open squares to dry in the sun. On a clear morning you can walk past hundreds of them, lined up like a quiet army. Once dry, they are fired in open kilns: the pots are stacked, covered with straw and ash, and burned slowly for a day or more. When the kiln is opened, the pots come out red, black or grey depending on the clay and firing.

Thimi's pots are essential to daily and ritual life. The famous juju dhau curd of Bhaktapur is set in clay bowls called kataaa, small clay lamps are lit in their thousands during Tihar, and clay vessels are needed for weddings, funerals and festivals.

Masks

Thimi's mask makers produce faces of gods and demons used in the sacred dances of the valley. Thimi also has its own masked dances, such as the Layaku Bhairav dance and the peacock dance, performed at festival time. (The famous Nava Durga masks of Bhaktapur are a separate tradition, made each year by Chitrakar painters in Bhaktapur itself.)

Mask making is slow work. A clay mould is prepared; layers of paper pulp or cloth are pressed over it and left to dry; the shell is removed, smoothed, and then painted by hand with bright colours — red for fierce deities, white or yellow for peaceful ones, with gold, black and blue details. Eyes are often painted last, and in ritual masks this step is considered the moment the deity is given life.

Besides ritual masks, workshops make decorative masks, puppets and small figures for visitors. Buying one directly supports the family and helps keep the tradition alive.

Challenges today

Plastic and steel have replaced many clay vessels in everyday use, and young people often choose other careers. Some potters now make decorative items, garden pots and tourist souvenirs; others teach pottery classes to visitors. The 2015 earthquake destroyed many workshops, and rebuilding took years. Visiting respectfully, asking questions and buying pieces you like are simple ways to support these crafts.

Visiting a workshop

The potters' areas are spread through old Thimi — follow the drying pots. Most families are happy to let you watch if you ask politely. Some offer short sessions at the wheel for a small fee. Mornings on dry, sunny days are best, when drying and firing are in full swing.