Bode and the tongue-piercing festival

North of Thimi, across fields that turn gold with rice in autumn, lies Bode, a compact Newar village that is now part of Madhyapur Thimi Municipality. For most of the year Bode is a quiet farming community of brick houses, small squares and temples. For one day each spring, thousands of people crowd its lanes.

Mahalaxmi of Bode

Bode's principal deity is Mahalaxmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, whose pagoda temple stands at the heart of the village. Local people consider her a powerful protector, and her temple is the starting point of Bode's most famous ritual.

Jibro Chhedne Jatra

On the day after Nepali New Year, a volunteer from a particular local family has his tongue pierced with a long iron needle. He then walks around the village carrying on his shoulders a large wooden frame of oil lamps (a mashaal), with the needle still through his tongue, accompanied by musicians and a huge crowd. When he returns to the temple the needle is removed, and it is believed that if he has prepared properly through fasting and ritual purity, he will feel little pain and the wound will heal without bleeding.

The origins of the ritual are told in several versions. One common story says that long ago a demon or evil spirit troubled the village, and a tantric expert captured it and punished it by piercing its tongue; the ritual commemorates this victory and protects the village from harm in the coming year. Taking on the role is considered a great honour and a religious act of service to the community.

Other festivals

Bode also takes part in the New Year celebrations of the region: its deities are carried in palanquins and joined with those of neighbouring villages during the Bisket and Sindoor festival period. During Dashain and Tihar, courtyards fill with families, and during the rice planting season in the monsoon you may hear traditional planting songs in the fields around the village.

Visiting

Bode is a short walk or ride north from Thimi. It is best visited in the morning, when the village is most active. On the festival day, arrive early to find a place to stand — rooftops are often reserved for relatives. The ritual is intense and not for everyone; remember it is a sacred event, not a performance, and follow the lead of local people regarding where to stand and when to photograph.