Bisket Jatra (Biska)

Bisket Jatra, or Biska in Nepal Bhasa, is the most spectacular festival in Bhaktapur. It lasts nine days and eight nights around the solar new year in mid-April and is unusual in following the solar rather than the lunar calendar.

The chariots

In the days before the festival, a huge three-tiered chariot is assembled in Taumadhi Square beside the Nyatapola temple. The image of Bhairav is placed in it, while a smaller chariot carries Bhadrakali, his consort. The chariots are then pulled through the city. The people of the upper town (thane) and lower town (kone) compete in a massive tug-of-war, each side trying to pull Bhairav's chariot into its own neighbourhood. The winning side is said to have good fortune in the coming year. The contest is loud, joyful and sometimes chaotic.

The pole

Outside the city at Yosinkhel, a tall wooden pole called the lingo or yosin is raised, with long cloth banners hanging from its crossbar. Tradition links the banners to two serpents slain in a legend. On the evening before the new year, crowds pull the pole down — the moment its crashing fall marks the end of the old year and the beginning of the new. The name Bisket is often explained from bi-syako, the killing of the serpents.

Across the valley

The celebrations spread beyond Bhaktapur. In Thimi, New Year's Day brings Sindoor Jatra, and in Bode the day after brings the tongue-piercing ritual. Many families travel between the three towns during these days.

Tips

Crowds are enormous and the chariots are heavy and unpredictable — do not stand directly in front of or behind them, and keep children away from the ropes. Rooftop cafés around Taumadhi Square offer the safest views; book early. Keep valuables secure.