Janai Purnima and Kwati Punhi

Janai Purnima falls on the full moon of Shrawan, in the middle of the monsoon. It brings together several traditions: the renewal of the sacred thread, the tying of protective threads, and — for Newar families — a hearty soup called kwati.

The sacred thread

Men of Brahmin, Chhetri and some other communities who wear the janai, a sacred cotton thread worn across the chest, change it on this day after a ritual bath and prayers led by priests. Everyone, regardless of caste, receives a yellow or red raksha bandhan thread tied around the wrist by a priest, believed to protect the wearer. Many keep it on until Laxmi Puja, when it is tied to a cow's tail.

Pilgrimages

Thousands of pilgrims trek to the sacred lake of Gosainkunda in Langtang, and at the Kumbheshwar temple in Patan a pond is said to be connected to Gosainkunda. Shamans (jhankri) also gather at these sites, drumming and dancing.

Kwati Punhi

For Newars the day is Gunhu Punhi, and the special dish is kwati: a thick soup of nine kinds of sprouted beans — including black lentils, soybeans, chickpeas, mung beans and field peas. Kwati is believed to warm the body and fight off the colds and stomach problems of the wet season.

The next day

The day after Janai Purnima is Gai Jatra, one of Bhaktapur's liveliest festivals — see its page for details.