Gai Jatra in Bhaktapur

Gai Jatra, the festival of cows, falls on the day after Janai Purnima in the monsoon month of Bhadra. It is a festival for remembering the dead, and yet in Bhaktapur it is one of the most joyful and energetic days of the year.

The meaning

According to belief, cows help the souls of the dead cross into the next world. Families who have lost a member during the past year take part in a procession through the city, traditionally leading a cow or a child dressed as a cow. The procession shows the bereaved families that they are not alone, and helps the community share its grief.

A well-known story from Kathmandu tells how King Pratap Malla, to console his queen after the death of their son, asked families who had lost someone to parade before her, so she could see that death touches everyone. He also encouraged jokes and satire to make her smile. That spirit of humour is still part of Gai Jatra.

Bhaktapur's celebration

In Bhaktapur, bereaved families build tall, narrow frameworks of bamboo and cloth called taha-macha, decorated with a photo of the person who died, and carry them through the streets. Groups of men and boys follow, performing the ghinta ghisi dance — a rhythmic stick dance to drums, which continues in different neighbourhoods for days after the main festival. Some participants dress in costumes or play comic characters.

Satire

Across Nepal, Gai Jatra is traditionally a day when satire is allowed: comedians, newspapers and theatre groups mock politicians and social problems. In recent years satirical programmes in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur have become a highlight.

Tips

Gai Jatra takes place during the monsoon, so bring an umbrella. The processions are respectful events for grieving families even when they look festive — avoid getting in the way, and ask before taking close-up photos.