Dashain (Bada Dashain)

Dashain is the longest and most important festival in Nepal. For fifteen days in the autumn month of Ashwin or Kartik, offices close, buses fill with people travelling home, and families gather to worship the goddess Durga, celebrating her victory over the buffalo demon Mahishasura — the triumph of good over evil.

The fifteen days

The festival begins with Ghatasthapana, when barley seeds are planted in a pot of sand and soil in a dark corner of the house, kept moist and hidden from sunlight so they grow pale yellow shoots called jamara. On the seventh day, Fulpati, sacred items are brought to the home. The eighth and ninth days, Maha Ashtami and Maha Navami, are days of intense worship, when temples of Durga and the mother goddesses are crowded, and in many households and temples animals are sacrificed. On Navami, vehicles and tools are also worshipped so that they will serve safely in the year ahead.

The tenth day, Vijaya Dashami, is the heart of Dashain. Elders place a tika of red vermilion mixed with rice and yogurt on the foreheads of younger family members, tuck jamara behind their ears and give blessings and small gifts of money. Families visit relatives for days afterwards to receive tika. The festival formally ends on Kojagrat Purnima, the full moon, when Lakshmi is worshipped and some people stay up all night.

Dashain in Bhaktapur and Thimi

In Bhaktapur, Dashain is closely tied to the Nava Durga, the nine forms of the goddess. The masked Nava Durga dance troupe performs throughout this season, wearing masks made by Chitrakar painters of Bhaktapur. Taleju temple, normally closed, becomes a focus of royal-era rituals, and swords and weapons are ceremonially worshipped. In Thimi, the Balkumari temple and the town's mother goddess shrines are busy with worship throughout the nine nights of Navaratri.

Kites, swings and markets

Dashain is also the season of kites. Children and adults fly kites from rooftops, trying to cut each other's strings. In villages, tall bamboo swings called ping are built for the festival. Markets in Sanothimi and Bhaktapur are packed with people buying new clothes, food and gifts.

For visitors

Expect closed offices, crowded buses before the main days and quiet cities on tika day. It is a wonderful time to experience family life if you are invited to a home. Wish people Dashain ko subhakamana.