Indra Jatra and Kumari Jatra

Indra Jatra is the great festival of Kathmandu city, held at the end of the monsoon to thank Indra, the king of the gods and giver of rain, for the harvest. Although it takes place in Kathmandu's Durbar Square rather than in Bhaktapur or Thimi, it is only a short ride from Sanothimi, and many residents go to watch.

The legend

According to legend, Indra came down to the valley in disguise to steal parijat flowers for his mother. He was caught and tied up in the square until his mother came to rescue him, promising in return to send dew and mist for the crops through the winter. The festival re-enacts this story, and images of Indra with arms outstretched, as if bound, are displayed across the old city.

Eight days of spectacle

The festival opens with the raising of the yosin (lingo), a tall wooden pole with Indra's banner, in front of the old palace. Over the following days masked dancers perform: the red-faced Lakhe demon roams the streets, the Majipa Lakhe dances, and the Sawa Bhakku and Pulu Kisi (a white elephant looking for Indra) entertain crowds. Huge masks of Bhairav are displayed, and one of them, Swet Bhairav, pours rice beer from his mouth.

Kumari Jatra

On the third day the Kumari, the living goddess of Kathmandu, is carried out in her chariot for the first of three processions, along with the chariots of Ganesh and Bhairav. The head of state traditionally receives her blessing.

History

Tradition dates Indra Jatra to the 10th century. King Jaya Prakash Malla added the Kumari procession in 1756 — and it was during Indra Jatra in 1768 that Prithvi Narayan Shah's army entered Kathmandu while the city celebrated.

Tips

Crowds are dense around Basantapur, especially on the Kumari days. Arrive early, watch from a rooftop café if you can, and keep valuables secure.