Bhairavnath Temple

On the east side of Taumadhi Square, facing Nyatapola, stands the Bhairavnath temple. Where Nyatapola is tall and slender, Bhairavnath is broad and heavy, with a rectangular plan and three roofs. Together the two temples frame one of the finest squares in Nepal.

Bhairav of Bhaktapur

Bhairav is the fierce, protective form of Shiva, and in Bhaktapur he is revered as a guardian of the city. His image here is unusual: in local tradition, only his head is worshipped, and the story behind it is part of the legend of Bisket Jatra. According to one version, Bhairav came from Kashi (Varanasi) in disguise to watch a festival, was recognised by a tantric, and was trapped; his head remained in Bhaktapur. Small offerings are pushed through a hole in the temple front, where an image of Bhairav's head can be glimpsed.

History

Tradition says the temple was originally a one-storey building, and King Jagat Jyoti Malla or later Bhupatindra Malla raised it to its present form early in the 18th century. The legend says that after building Nyatapola, Bhupatindra Malla had to calm Bhairav's jealousy, and so enlarged his temple too. The 1934 earthquake severely damaged it, and it was restored afterwards.

Bisket Jatra

During Bisket Jatra, the Nepali New Year festival, the image of Bhairav is placed in a huge three-tiered wooden chariot, which is pulled through the city streets. Teams from the upper and lower halves of the town compete in a tug-of-war to pull the chariot towards their side — a rowdy, exciting event that sometimes lasts for hours. The chariot is assembled in Taumadhi Square in the days before the festival, and its giant wooden wheels can be seen stored nearby during the rest of the year.

Look for

The temple front is decorated with small metal images and a row of carved struts. Notice the lions guarding the entrance and the pottery offerings sometimes left by devotees. The square in front is also a traditional gathering place during festivals, when musicians play from the temple platform.