Palace of Fifty-Five Windows

The long brick facade on the north side of Durbar Square is the Palace of Fifty-Five Windows, called Nhekanzhya Laykoo in Nepal Bhasa. Its upper floor is lined with a gallery of dark carved wooden windows — the fifty-five windows of its name — that are considered one of the masterpieces of Newar woodcarving.

History

A royal palace stood here from at least the time of Yaksha Malla in the 15th century, when Bhaktapur was the capital of the whole valley. The palace as we know it owes most to King Bhupatindra Malla, who ruled around 1696 to 1722 and rebuilt it lavishly. Later additions, damage and restorations — especially after the 1934 earthquake, when parts of the palace had to be rebuilt — have changed its appearance, but the window gallery remains its most admired feature.

The windows

The windows are made of seasoned sal and other hardwoods, carved with lattices, deities, flowers and mythical creatures, then darkened with oil. The latticework allowed members of the royal household to look out over the square without being seen. Standing in front of the palace and looking up, try to count them — and notice that no two carved panels are exactly alike.

Golden Gate and Mul Chowk

Set into the palace facade is the famous Golden Gate, which leads into the inner courtyards and to the Taleju temple, the royal family's protective goddess. See the separate page on the Golden Gate.

National Art Gallery

Part of the palace complex houses the National Art Gallery. Its rooms display paubha paintings, palm-leaf manuscripts, stone and metal sculptures of deities, and works from the Malla period. The entrance is flanked by statues of Hanuman and Narasimha. Photography rules inside change from time to time, so ask at the entrance.

Tip

The palace looks best in the soft light of early morning or late afternoon, when the carvings throw deep shadows. For a wide view, step back towards the Vatsala Durga temple and the Taleju Bell.