The Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka)

Set into the red brick wall of the Palace of Fifty-Five Windows is a doorway that glows in the sun. The Golden Gate, known locally as Sun Dhoka, is made of gilded copper and was built in the mid-18th century by Ranjit Malla, the last Malla king of Bhaktapur. Many art historians and travel writers have called it one of the finest works of art in the Kathmandu Valley.

Reading the gate

At the top of the gate sits Garuda, the man-bird mount of Vishnu, spreading his wings and gripping serpents. Below him, in the centre of an arched panel called a torana, is the goddess Taleju in a multi-armed form, holding weapons and symbols. Around her are smaller deities, mythical water monsters (makara), and flowing vegetal patterns. The gate is topped by a small roof with gilded finials and flanked by bells.

Taleju and Mul Chowk

The gate leads to the inner palace courtyards, including Mul Chowk, the main courtyard, and the temple of Taleju Bhawani, the protective goddess of the Malla kings, who is also closely linked with the living goddess Kumari. The Taleju shrine is among the most sacred places in Bhaktapur; entry to the innermost areas is restricted to Hindus, and photography inside may not be allowed. Visitors can usually walk through the gate to see parts of the courtyards — follow the signs and guards' instructions.

Inside you may also see the Naga Pokhari, a royal bathing tank with a stone waterspout and a serpent-crowned post, used by the kings for ritual bathing.

Why it matters

The Golden Gate represents the last flowering of Malla art. Within fifteen years of its making, Bhaktapur fell to the Shah kings of Gorkha, and the era of the three valley kingdoms ended. Standing before it you are looking at the final masterpiece of an entire age.