Kamal Binayak and the lotus pond

On the north-eastern edge of Bhaktapur, where the brick city meets open fields, stands a small Ganesh temple beside a still pond. The temple is Kamal Binayak — Ganesh of the lotus — and the pond is Kamal Pokhari, named after the lotus flowers that bloom on its surface in the monsoon.

Yatu Ganesh

Local Newars call the deity Yatu Ganesh. Like every Newar town, Bhaktapur honours Ganesh at many shrines, and it is customary to worship him first before any other god. Kamal Binayak is especially busy on Tuesdays and Saturdays, and during Ganesh Chaturthi. Tradition holds that the shrine is around a thousand years old; the present temple was renovated in 2010.

The legend of the pond

A local legend tells of a queen who fetched water from this pond for her daily offerings, carrying it on a lotus leaf. Whatever its truth, the pond has served the neighbourhood for centuries for washing, irrigation and ritual. In the evening, families stroll along its banks and children feed the fish.

A quiet corner

Kamal Binayak sees far fewer visitors than the main squares, which is exactly its charm. From here you can look north across the Hanumante valley towards the ridge of Changu Narayan. It is also a starting point for walks out of the city: north towards Changu, or east to the fields and brick kilns of the countryside.

Getting there

From Durbar Square, walk east along the main street past Tachupal (Dattatreya Square) and continue north-east; the walk takes about twenty minutes. Taxis from the Kamal Binayak bus stop connect to Nagarkot and Changu Narayan.