Nava Durga Dyochhen, the house of the goddesses

Walk east from Dattatreya Square into the neighbourhood of Gachhen and you reach an unusual building: a tall, narrow three-storey house with a gilded door, painted windows and a small courtyard in front. This is the Nava Durga Dyochhen — dyochhen means god-house in Nepal Bhasa — the home of Bhaktapur's most powerful and mysterious deities.

The goddesses of the city

The Malla kings of Bhaktapur were devotees of Shakti, the divine feminine, and believed that fierce tantric goddesses could protect their kingdom. They placed shrines (pith) of the eight mother goddesses at points around the edge of the city, forming a sacred diagram, with Tripurasundari at the centre. The Nava Durga — nine forms of Durga together with Ganesh, Bhairav and attendants — are the living embodiment of that protective circle.

Inside the god-house

The Dyochhen is where the masks of the Nava Durga are kept and worshipped. During the eleven-month dance season the dancers of the Banmala community live here, observing rules of purity. A silver image of Mahalaxmi resides inside, and local people say every devotee should visit at least once. Tantric rites, including animal sacrifices, take place here that are closed to outsiders.

The masks

Each year new masks are made by Chitrakar painters from sacred clay mixed with other materials, and brought to life through tantric consecration. When the season ends on Bhalbhal Ashtami in early summer, the masks are carried to the Hanumante river and cremated like human bodies. After a pause of about two months, a new set begins the cycle again at Gathemangal.

Visiting respectfully

The inner shrine is closed to non-Hindus, and photography of rituals is not allowed without permission. You can admire the building's golden door, carved struts and painted façade from the lane. The best way to understand the Dyochhen is to watch the Nava Durga dance in one of Bhaktapur's squares — ask locals when and where the troupe is performing.